Yudofu Sagano
Kyoto is known for its vegetarian cuisine influenced by the local monk culture, particularly its tofu. Located in Arashiyama, Yudofu Sagano is a restaurant specialising in yudofu, a Buddhist speciality, consisting of pieces of tofu simmered in a hot broth. The dish is accompanied by a variety of side dishes including onsen egg, tempura and various presentations of tofu. The meal was delicate, interesting, and it showcased the tofu really well, the dessert at the end was outstanding. We thoroughly enjoyed this lunch in a traditional Japanese dining room overlooking the beautiful zen garden in a calm, relaxed atmosphere. There is only one set menu priced at 3800 Jpy/pax, with no alternatives. As we had other places to try, we split one set menu between the two of us.
Address: 45 Sagatenryuji Susukinobabacho, Ukyo-ku, Kyoto
Izuju
Izuju is an authentic Kyoto style sushi restaurant, which is over 100 years old. Kyozushi is very different than traditional sushi. Instead of a raw fish, a cured fish is used, and the rice is much more strongly seasoned with vinegar. Because of its inland location, Kyoto didn’t have as much access to fresh fish. In the old days when the refrigeration was not the norm yet, to preserve the fish they cured it. With what was available at the time, sushi chefs developed a unique to Kyoto style of sushi. I would recommend sampling a few different types by ordering the set plate. Our included four varieties of sushi. Signature Saba sushi, a chub mackerel cured with salt and vinegar on top of vinegared rice wrapped in kelp. Hako, a pressed sushi with roasted fish. This form of sushi is prepared inside a square wooden box and pressed down with a lid, then removed and cut into pieces. Inari sushi, vinegared rice with hemp seeds, burdock and yuzu in a bag of deep-fried tofu. Maki with shiitake, kanpyou (white-flowered gourd), mitsuba (Japanese hornwort) and omelette. The only accompaniment is ginger, no soy and no wasabi is provided.
Address: 292-1 Giommachi Kitagawa, Higashiyama-ku, Higasiyama, Kyoto
Unagiya Hirokawa
Established in 1967, Unagiya Hirokawa specialises in Unagi, a freshwater eel that was filleted, skewered and grilled over charcoal while being basted with a special sweet soy sauce. It’s one of my favourite dishes, and Unagiya makes a damn good one, tender with a delicate sauce that compliments the eel without overpowering it. The rice was perfectly cooked too. I would recommend making a reservation well in advance, otherwise be prepared to wait, the waiting time is usually between 1,5 h – 3 h, depending on what time you arrive. The restaurant used to hold a Michelin Star which I assume, significantly contributed to its popularity.
Address: 44-1 Sagatenryuji Kitatsukurimicho, Ukyo-ku, Ukyo, Kyoto
Honke Owariya Main Branch
Honke Owariya is the oldest restaurant in Kyoto and one of the oldest in Japan. It was founded in 1465, their speciality is buckwheat noodles called soba, and the rumour is that even royal family eats here when they come to Kyoto. It’s a very atmospheric place to enjoy your noodles, hot or cold. The soba texture was just right, soft but firm. The dishes here range from simple bowls of noodles to full sets; everyone should find something they fancy.
Address: 322 Niomontsukinukecho Kurumayamachidori 2jo Kudaru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto
Myodai Omen Kodaiji
Myodai Omen Kodaiji specialises in homemade udon noodles, served either hot or cold with a delicious dipping broth and various accompaniments to flavour it like sesame seeds, scallions and ginger on the side. The noodles were as they should be, plump and chewy. If you are an udon noodle lover, don’t miss this place.
Address: 358 Matsuyacho Higashiyamaku, Kyoto
Kura Kura
Kura Kura is a traditional Izakaya, meaning a Japanese gastropub. A casual place to grab a drink and some small plates to accompany the alcohol. Japanese usually come to Izakayas for after-work drinks, hence you will see plenty of salarymen inside. The atmosphere is informal, fun and quite loud. Kura Kura is located in a quiet street, about 10 minutes from Kyoto station, and luckily for us only a few minutes from our ryokan, but it’s worth a visit even if you are not staying locally. They have quite an extensive food and drink menu. If you will opt for sake the staff will ask you what kind you like and allow you to try it before ordering.
Address: 244 Ameyacho, Higashinotoin Shichijo-dori Agaru, Simogyo-ku, Kimura Bldg. 1F, Shimogyo, Kyoto
Chao Chao Sanjo Kiyamachi
Small, noisy, energetic and affordable. If you like gyoza, it’s a must do. They have a great selection of different dumplings, however other than two types of gyozas filled with shrimp, all of them have meat fillings. So it’s not really a place recommended for vegetarians, although, they have a few vegetarian side dishes.
Address: 117 Ishiyacho Kiya-Machi Sanjo Kudaru Nakagyo-Ku, Kyoto
Kaiten Sushi CHOJIRO Shijyokiyamachi
Sushi restaurant that caters mostly to foreigners. With a straightforward ordering system using a tablet with an option to select different languages and menu with pictures. You can place additional orders as you go on. You can also choose the dishes from the conveyor belt. It’s a safe option if you are intimidated by the more traditional restaurants were very often staff don’t speak any English; however, you are considerably compromising on taste.
Address: 103-2 Hashimotocho, Shimogyo-ku, B1f, Nakagyo, Kyoto
Sushi no Musashi JR Kyoto Station 8-jo Entrance
Conveniently located in Kyoto Station, Sushi no Musashi serves sushi from a conveyor belt or “to go”. The quality is average, as you would expect from this kind of place but it’s a decent and reasonably priced option if you are looking for sushi “to go” around Kyoto Station to enjoy in your ryokan, as we had. Our recommendation, however, would be to stick to sushi with cooked or cured ingredients.
Address: 8-3 Higashishiokojitakakuracho, Shimogyoku, Kyoto Omotenashi Komichi, Kyoto Station 8joEntrance, Kyoto
